
The Luxurious World of Silk: Types, Cultivation, and Thread-Making Process
Silk is synonymous with elegance, but did you know there are multiple types? Each has a unique texture, sheen, and origin. Let’s explore different silks, where they are cultivated in India, and how those fine threads come to life.
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Types of Silk Found in India
India is one of the largest silk producers, offering a variety of silk types. Here are the most sought-after ones:

Mulberry Silk
Mulberry silk is the finest and most commonly produced silk in India. It has a soft texture, natural sheen, and high durability. It is cultivated in Karnataka, Tamil Nadu, Andhra Pradesh, and West Bengal. This silk comes from silkworms that feed solely on mulberry leaves. It is perfect for sarees, scarves, and bridal wear.
Tussar Silk
Tussar silk, also called ‘wild silk,’ has a rich texture and a slightly coarse feel. It is primarily produced in Jharkhand, Bihar, Chhattisgarh, and Madhya Pradesh. Tussar silk has a natural golden hue and is highly breathable, making it ideal for hot climates. Artisans often prefer it for intricate embroidery work.
Eri Silk
Eri silk is warm, soft, and non-shiny, making it perfect for winter wear. Assam, Meghalaya, and Arunachal Pradesh are the key regions where Eri silk is cultivated. It is also called “peace silk” because the process doesn’t kill the silkworm. It supports ethical fashion and is gaining popularity in sustainable clothing lines.
Muga Silk
Muga silk is exclusive to Assam. It has a natural golden hue and is incredibly durable. It gets shinier with each wash, making it even more desirable. The production is limited, which adds to its premium status. Muga silk is used in traditional Assamese attire like Mekhela Chador.
Oak Tussar Silk
This lesser-known variety is cultivated in the Himalayan belt and parts of Uttar Pradesh. It has a natural earthy tone and is used in contemporary as well as traditional wear. Oak Tussar is cultivated in controlled plantations and contributes to eco-conscious fashion.
Where Silk Is Cultivated in India
Different regions specialize in silk production due to their climate and resources. Here’s a breakdown:
- Karnataka, Tamil Nadu, Andhra Pradesh, West Bengal – The primary hubs for mulberry silk production. These states offer ideal conditions for mulberry tree cultivation.
- Jharkhand, Bihar, Chhattisgarh, Odisha, West Bengal – Major Tussar silk-producing states. These areas have dense forest coverage, ideal for wild silkworms.
- Assam, Meghalaya, Arunachal Pradesh – Home to Eri and Muga silk. The climate and vegetation support these indigenous silks.
- Madhya Pradesh and Maharashtra – Emerging players in silk farming. Government initiatives are boosting production here.
The Silk Thread-Making Process
Turning raw silk into luxurious threads involves several meticulous steps. Here’s a step-by-step look at how it happens:
Silkworm Cultivation (Sericulture)
Silkworms are reared in controlled environments. They are fed mulberry leaves (for mulberry silk) or other specific plants, depending on the silk type. Farmers monitor temperature and humidity carefully to ensure healthy larvae growth.
Cocoon Formation
Silkworms spin cocoons around themselves, made of continuous silk filaments. These cocoons are later harvested for silk extraction. Each cocoon can yield up to 1,000 meters of silk fiber.
Cocoon Boiling
Cocoons are boiled to soften the sericin, a natural protein that holds the silk fibers together. This process allows for easier thread extraction. Boiling also helps in killing the pupa in conventional silk production.
Reeling the Silk
The softened cocoons are unwound to extract long silk fibers. These fibers are spun together to form silk threads. This step requires great skill to avoid fiber breakage.
Twisting and Degumming
The silk thread is twisted to add strength and elasticity. Degumming is done to remove the sericin completely. This enhances the softness and shine of the final product.
Dyeing and Weaving
Silk threads are dyed using natural or synthetic colors. They are then woven into fabrics, which are used to make sarees, scarves, and other textiles. Weaving styles vary across regions, adding cultural value.
Why Silk Is a Sustainable Choice
Many silk varieties, especially Eri and Tussar, are eco-friendly. Eri silk is non-violent, as the worms are not killed during production. Tussar silk is cultivated in forest-based systems, supporting tribal livelihoods and maintaining ecological balance. Natural dyeing processes reduce chemical usage, making silk a green fabric.
How to Identify Pure Silk
- Burn Test: Pure silk burns slowly and smells like burning hair.
- Touch Test: Genuine silk feels soft and smooth, while synthetic silk feels slippery.
- Ring Test: Pure silk easily slides through a ring without resistance.
- Water Absorption: Silk absorbs water quickly, while synthetic materials repel it.
- Price Factor: Real silk is more expensive due to its labor-intensive production.
- Label Check: Look for Silk Mark certification while purchasing.
Benefits of Wearing Silk
- Comfort: Silk is breathable and adjusts to body temperature.
- Skin-Friendly: It’s hypoallergenic and gentle on sensitive skin.
- Style: The fabric has a natural sheen that enhances elegance.
- Durability: Good quality silk lasts for years with proper care.
- Luxury Appeal: Wearing silk instantly elevates any outfit.
Final Thoughts
Silk is a marvel of nature, offering luxury, durability, and variety. From cultivation to weaving, the process is intricate yet fascinating. Whether you choose Mulberry, Tussar, Eri, Muga, or Oak Tussar silk, each has a unique charm and utility. Embrace silk for its comfort, elegance, and sustainable appeal.